Australian travellers warned as Bali steps up security

BALI police have enforced the highest security alert on the island in response to the deadly hotel bombings at the Ritz-Carlton and JW Marriott in Jakarta.

At the same time, Australia has reissued a travel warning for Indonesia, including Bali, declaring the island an attractive target for terrorists.

A massive security operation has been under way at Bali’s Denpasar airport since Friday’s bombings, with vehicles banked up in queues and being searched by armed police.

Yesterday, despite the stringent measures, I was waved through with a car boot full of equipment.

The chief of airport police, Agung Mudita, said yesterday nothing suspicious had so far been found. Although police are using metal detectors, no sniffer dogs were present.

“We are maintaining the level-one alert in Bali until further direction from the central police force in Jakarta,” Mr Mudita said.

Police in Bali, the scene of terrorist bombings in 2002 and 2005, have been meeting to discuss security proposals. “We are co-ordinating our security maintenance plans with government authorities,” he said.

Passengers are being asked to arrive at the airport earlier because traffic disruption is causing delays. But that was secondary to people’s safety, Mr Mudita said. “People are happy with the checks by police — they feel safe,” he said.

Many tourists arriving in Bali’s airport were uneasy on hearing of the bomb attacks in Jakarta, but said it would have been too late to change their travel plans.

“It’s scary; we will lie low and not go to crowded places,” said Dutch visitor Mandy Keesmekers.

German tourist Barbara Verimb was wary: “There’s always a possibility in Islamic countries there might be a bomb attack by radical Muslims. But we don’t stay in luxury hotels or go to very touristy places.”

The doubling of Bali’s police presence will continue indefinitely. “We are enforcing all of our men to increase the level of security on the island. We are checking all harbours and airports into Bali and there will be extra security checks for vehicles,” said police spokesman Budi Sugianyar.

“The security level is increased especially at crowded places, hotels, and tourist locations; not only in the busy southern part of Bali, but the whole island.”

If there was any concern at the shopping and restaurant area in Kuta Square yesterday, it was not apparent.

The central Dulang Kafe, which replaced the old Raja’s Cafe attacked by terrorists in October 2005, was doing a roaring trade.

In the upmarket Seminyak district on Friday and over the weekend, the pre-eminent beachfront hotspot, Ku De Ta, was packed with tourists.

Some were nervous, saying the venue was a “perfect target”, but they felt the more downmarket Kuta nightclubs were places to avoid.

In the popular Legian area, beachfront hotels, restaurants and nightclubs are still doing a thriving business but owners are nervous about their vulnerable position. Legian’s O-CE-N Hotel has 14 security and police staff plus a sniffer dog. It has stepped up searches since the bombings.

“You can’t be blase. Because of our location and accessibility, it’s difficult to maintain the level of vigilance,” chief of security, I Ketut Sukawana, said yesterday.

The swanky hotels flanking the beachfront Ku De Ta, such as The Oberoi and The Legian, were extremely quiet over the weekend, while marketing sources at the nearby luxury Ahisa Resort reported cancellations.

Yet popular streetfront restaurants on Oberoi Street — or “Eat Street” — were still busy.

While security and vehicle checks have been stepped up everywhere, many tourists and expats believe security at Ku De Ta is stringent.

The manager, Australian Marcus Willson, has the party venue on high alert, with a strengthened security and police presence, including sniffer dogs. Security staff are trained in hand-to-hand combat, bomb removal and anti-terrorism by three ex-SAS servicemen. “We take it very seriously,” Mr Willson said.

Australian visitors Michelle and Leigh Telfer were nervous, saying they would leave Ku De Ta before dark, when it filled with people.

“Anything could happen because we’re in a crowded, popular place,” Mrs Telfer said. Earlier in the day, the couple had visited Jimbaran beach, the site of the 2005 bomb attack, saying it was deserted.

Another Ku De Ta visitor, Sydneysider Peter Higgins, admitted he was “on edge”.

“I wasn’t going to come here tonight … I have four children; you feel ‘why expose yourself to risk”‘

Bali tour and transport operators, whose business dried up after the 2002 and 2005 terrorist attacks which killed hundreds of people, are on tenterhooks.

“Of course we are worried about the impact. We want a peaceful island that everyone can enjoy,” says Nyoman Sukanara, a tour guide from the popular Legian district.

Most Balinese rely on the tourist trade for their livelihoods and Mr Sukanara says he will have to return to his fishing and farming village in North Bali if tourists leave.

Local stallholders selling souvenirs and clothes express the same view and are particularly worried that Australia has reissued a travel warning.

One stallholder, Wayan, says he would also return to his village if his business was affected.